The New York Times has now published a second aromatic account of the appellation controversy that has swirled around St.-Émilion, in the Bordeaux region of France, for more than a year. “Classified Matters,” in today’s Sunday Magazine, follows “Ruling Turns a Village of Winemakers on Itself ” from July 24. The basic story line remains the same: On July 1 an administrative court in France threw out the 2006 classification of wine-producing chateaux, on the objection of seven chateaux that were downgraded in 2006 from their standing in 1996. One detailed summary of the history of the St.-Émilion classification, and its current status in light of the litigation, appears here. One consequence of the decision is particularly striking: Some winemakers that invested considerable resources in new and improved techniques and technology after 1996, and who were rewarded with upgraded designations in 2006, now cannot use their improved status to recoup those investments in the wine market. More below the jump.Read More »Ancien Cru?